Skin Cleansers Aid Sensitive Skin

Skin cleansers may be an important adjunct to the regimen of those who use cosmetics, have sensitive or compromised skin, or utilize topical therapies. Cleansers emulsify dirt, oil and microorganisms on the skin surface so that they can be easily removed. During cleansing, there is a complex interaction between the cleanser, the moisture skin barrier, and skin pH. Cleansing, with water, soap or a liquid cleanser, will affect the moisture skin barrier. Soap will bring about the greatest changes to the barrier and increase skin pH. Liquid facial cleansers are gentler, effecting less disruption of the barrier, with minimal change to skin pH, and can provide people with a cleanser that is a combination of surfactant classes, moisturizers and acidic pH in order to minimize disruption to the skin barrier.

Skin cleansers are surface-active substances (i.e., emulsifiers/detergents/surfactants/soaps) that lower the surface tension on the skin and remove dirt, sebum, microorganisms and exfoliated corneum cells in an emulsified form. The ideal cleanser should do this without irritating, damaging or disrupting the skin and the moisture skin barrier. Water alone removes approximately 65% of oil and dirt from the skin, but is less effective at removing oils of cosmetic import and some environmental insults. Soaps are the oldest surfactants, and are chemically defined as the alkali salt of fatty acids with a pH of 9.5-10. Synthetic detergents vary in composition and surfactant types (i.e., anionic, amphoteric, cationic, non-ionic, and silicone) and pH. In modern usage, the term “soap” generally refers to any cleansing agent regardless of chemistry.1

Skin cleansers consist of the following:
• Water
• Surfactants (to emulsify the debris)
• Moisturizers (to hydrate the skin and maintain the skin barrier)
• Binders (to stabilize the formulation)
• Lather enhancers (found in some products)
• Fillers (generally used to harden bar soaps and cleansers)
• Preservatives (to prevent the growth of microorganisms)
• Fragrance (generally used to mask the odour of surfactants)
• Dyes or pigments (found in some products)

Skin cleansing may disrupt or disturb the moisture skin barrier, affect the skin surface pH, and irritate the skin. The moisture skin barrier protects against transepidermal water loss, chemical insult and xenobiotic penetration while preserving water to moisturize and maintain the smoothness and flexibility of the skin. A compromised barrier has been correlated with psoriasis, ichthyoses, and atopic dermatitis.2 Moisturizers, both emollients and humectants, within cleansers can maintain skin hydration as well as maintaining and restoring barrier function.3 Emollients impair evaporation of skin moisture by forming a film on the skin surface to impede water loss. Humectants attract and bind water, drawing it up from the dermis into the epidermis. The acid mantle of the skin plays an integral role in skin barrier function as well as regulating bacterial flora.4 Studies have shown that skin barrier regeneration/repair proceeds more slowly at neutral pH (7.2) than at physiological pH 5.5.5 Cleansers may also cause irritant or allergic contact dermatitis and this effect is enhanced if the skin barrier is compromised.

Conclusion

The choice of facial cleanser is important for people with normal skin, as well as for those people with sensitive skin and skin diseases such as atopic dermatitis, acne vulgaris. Liquid facial cleansers are the best choice for facial cleansing as they have an acidic pH, moisturizers and high rinsibility. Within the liquid cleanser category, the least irritating cleanser will contain non-ionic/silicone-based surfactants combined with moisturizers, as they will cause the least disruption to the moisture skin barrier and the normal skin flora.

B. L. Kuehl, PhD1 , K. S. Fyfe, H BBA2, N. H. Shear, MD, FRCPC3

1Scientific Insights Consulting Group, Mississauga, Ontario Canada
2GlaxoSmithKline, Consumer Healthcare, Oakville, Ontario Canada
3Departments of Medicine (Divisions of Dermatology and Clinical Pharmacology), and Pharmacology, University of Toronto Medical School; and Division of Dermatology, Sunnybrook & Women’s College Health Sciences Centre, Toronto, Ontario, Canada

Sensitive Skin 101

What is sensitive skin?

Generally if you have easily irritated or reactive skin, then you have ‘sensitive skin’. Most of the time sensitive skin relates to the face. Sensitive skin can be caused by a genetic predisposition or environmental factors. It appears as a redness, a swelling, itchy and dry irritation to the face. One of the major jobs of the skin is to waterproof. This is done to the epidermis or surface layer of the skin, producing a fat-protein sandwich that is always being replaced and is vital to prevent too much water loss from the skin.

Symptoms of sensitive skin include:

• A tingling or tightening of the skin without visible signs
• “Overreaction” to skin care or cosmetic products
• Reactions to shaving, or other physical stress to the skin

Sensitive skin can also be a heads-up for other conditions, such as:

• Altered skin — due to shaving, waxing, medications or heat, cold, wind, and pollution. Also, laser or chemical peels or scar removal
• Allergic skin – the sudden appearance of redness or swelling and itchiness
• Atopic skin – dry skin that is itchy and produces eczema. Eczema is related to hayfever and asthma. (see Eczema Guide for more information)
• Rosacea skin - blood vessels of the face enlarge resulting in a flushed sensation or a redness of the skin

What to do about your skin?

• Perfume or scented creams can be irritating.
• Rinse well after using cleansing products, which should be mild and soap-free as they do not remove so much oil from the skin (www.MildCleanser.ca gives you more information about this kind of cleansers)
• Use a moisturizer and sunscreen that is formulated for sensitive skin
• Don’t over wash your face. Temperature of the water should be tepid; neither hot or cold
• Don’t use exfoliants
• Be aware of seasonal temperatures. The sudden dryness of winter can mean itchy, dry skin until the skin responds by increasing oil production to reduce the water loss
• For breakouts use a cleanser with salicylic acid to help exfoliate pores. There are also moisturizers that contain salicylic acid

Be sensitive to stress

The causes and effects of stress on the body are not fully known, but for some people stress interferes with the body’s systems that repair and regulate the skin. Stress kills your natural antioxidant defenses, which help to prevent accelerated aging of the skin. Hormones can also trigger a histamine release within the skin causing it to erupt in bumpy redness, or breakout in hives.

Desensitize yourself

When choosing makeup, especially foundation and blush, buy oil-free products. Makeup that is water-based won’t clog pores. Look for oil-absorbing foundations that help keep oil off the face.

As for the rest of your body, check ingredients and avoid harsh chemicals in soaps, shampoos, body cleansers and creams, bath oils, bubble baths, etc.

Put your best face forward

• Watch your alcohol intake, spicy foods and caffeine
• Try to avoid excessive temperature changes
• Use the right cleansers, moisturizers and cosmetics
• Manage stress as best you can

Shaving Tips

Do you get nicks and in-grown hairs from shaving your legs? You are not alone; these are common complaints from women shaving their legs. Below are a few tips to help you get that smooth, clean shave that you want. For more information on skin care, please go to www.SkinCareGuide.ca.

Soften Those Hairs First: To get smoothly shaved legs, follow these hints. Shave a few minutes after your hair has softened in the shower, let your shaving product stay on your skin for a couple of minutes before starting to shave and make sure your blade/ razor is new.

Avoid Infection: Folliculitis is an infection of the hair follicles that often appears in areas that have been irritated by shaving or close-fitting clothes. Try shaving with an electric razor instead of a blade razor, keep your skin clean and avoid clothing that rubs against the skin and damages hair follicles. Read more on www.FungalGuide.ca

Avoid razor bumps! Ingrown hairs (sometimes called “razor bumps”) can be painful and are often prone to infection. To help prevent razor bumps, try shaving with the grain of the hair and use a very light touch. Also, don’t stretch the skin while shaving.

Will more hair grow back? Contrary to popular belief, shaving will not cause your hairs to grow back darker or thicker. They may look that way, particularly at first. But over time, you’ll see that they have the same appearance and feel as the hairs that came before.

Curly hair? You are at greater risk of getting ingrown hairs after shaving, as the hairs are more likely to curl around and loop back into the skin. You’ll want to take extra care when shaving.

What to use to shave: All out of shaving cream - yet you need to shave your legs? Try using your hair conditioner or body cleanser: they’ll soften the hairs on your skin for a smooth, close shave.

Sensitive skin? Try fragrance-free shaving creams that contain emollients as these will be less irritating to your skin.

Keep them soft. Don’t forget to moisturize! Applying moisturizer after shaving and straight from your shower, will keep your skin feeling soft and supple.

Mild Cleanser Basics

Why Cleanse the Skin?

Skin cleansing is necessary for skin health, hygiene and well being. Without effective cleansing, your skin’s surface can accumulate debris, sweat, air pollution, excess oil and bacteria. Cleaning the skin also helps to reduce the growth of microorganisms and reduce infection.

Washing with water alone will rinse some of the dirt and debris away, alone it’s not quite enough. Plain tap water will only remove about 65 percent of the oil and dirt on your skin, and will not effectively remove makeup. Skin cleansers, however, work as emulsifiers and help remove dirt, excess sebum (natural skin oils), bacteria, cosmetics and exfoliated surface skin cells.

Cleansers are especially important for those who use cosmetics, have sensitive or irritated skin, or use topical skin treatments.

Where Dirt and Debris Collect

When we cleanse our skin, we’re targeting the outermost layer of the skin called the epidermis. This outermost layer of the epidermis is composed of a tough protein-fat structure that produces a protective outer film, the skin moisture barrier. Part of the function of the epidermis is to waterproof the skin. While this film shields skin cells from the environment, it also traps and holds dust, pollutants, smoke, bacteria, cell debris, sweat and cosmetics.

Washing the embedded dirt off of your skin also removes some of this outer protective film and can irritate your skin, although mild cleansers have been developed to restore and maintain this protective covering.

Cleansing History

Today many people use the term “soap” to refer to any cleaning agent regardless of its chemistry.

Traditionally soap is a simple combination of fats, oils and salt with a history stretching back to the ancient Romans. In fact, the word “detergent” is derived from “to wipe off” in Latin.

Soaps as we know them were first used about 600 BC by the Phoenicians who combined goat fat, water and potassium carbonate ash to form a solid soap. More recently, in 1878, Harley Procter developed a new type of soap in collaboration with his cousin, James Gamble. They whipped air into a solution and created Ivory Soap, a product still sold today.

Cleanser Ingredients

Skin cleansers are formulated for a wide variety of needs and take many forms, from basic bar soaps to foaming liquid cleansers and antibacterial washes.

Surfactants (surface-acting agents) are the major ingredients in most cleansers, making up 30 to 70 per cent of the product. New synthetic cleansers with silicone surfactants are less irritating to the skin.

Most cleansers contain a combination of some of these ingredients:

• Water
• Surfactants (to emulsify dirt and debris)
• Moisturizers (to hydrate and maintain the skin barrier)
• Binders (to stabilize the cleanser’s ingredients)
• Lathering agents
• Fillers (used to harden bar soaps and cleansers)
• Preservatives (to prevent growth of microorganisms)
• Fragrance (usually to mask the odour of surfactants)
• Dyes or pigments

Sensitive Skin Reactions

Sensitive skin care is more than just choosing the right sensitive skin care product. Sensitive skin has a low tolerance level to certain products or environmental conditions. People with sensitive skin may react quickly to chemicals, heat or wind by developing red, blotchy and irritated skin. The four most common reactions tend to be acne, rosacea, stinging or burning reactions and allergies or redness.

Acne

Between 40 and 50 million Americans are troubled by acne, with eleven-to twenty-five-year-olds accounting for 70 to 80 percent of acne sufferers. While many adult women have acne resulting from hormonal imbalance, adults are often more perturbed by acne than teens. Read more