Cleanser and Soap Basics: Why Cleanse?

Why Cleanse the Skin?

Skin cleansing is necessary for skin health, hygiene and well being. Without effective cleansing, your skin’s surface can accumulate debris, sweat, air pollution, excess oil and bacteria. Cleaning the skin also helps to reduce the growth of microorganisms and reduce infection.

Washing with water alone will rinse some of the dirt and debris away, alone it’s not quite enough. Plain tap water will only remove about 65 percent of the oil and dirt on your skin, and will not effectively remove makeup. Skin cleansers, however, work as emulsifiers and help remove dirt, excess sebum (natural skin oils), bacteria, cosmetics and exfoliated surface skin cells.

Cleansers are especially important for those who use cosmetics, have sensitive or irritated skin, or use topical skin treatments.

Where Dirt and Debris Collect

When we cleanse our skin, we’re targeting the outermost layer of the skin called the epidermis. This outermost layer of the epidermis is composed of a tough protein-fat structure that produces a protective outer film, the skin moisture barrier. Part of the function of the epidermis is to waterproof the skin. While this film shields skin cells from the environment, it also traps and holds dust, pollutants, smoke, bacteria, cell debris, sweat and cosmetics.

Washing the embedded dirt off of your skin also removes some of this outer protective film and can irritate your skin, although mild cleansers have been developed to restore and maintain this protective covering.

The Disadvantages of Soap

Soap is the simplest type of surface-active agent - surfactant - and works by making fat and oil water-soluble and easily removed by wiping or washing. Made from fatty acid salts, soaps clean by reducing the surface tension of your skin with anionic agents such as carboxylate, sulfonate and sulfate ions which are potenial irritants.

At one time, it was thought soaps caused irritation by removing only fat from the outermost layer of the skin, but research indicates that soaps damage affects both the fat and protein structures of this top layer. This can cause unpleasant skin reactions and lead to a rougher skin texture. More bad news: the soap salts that emulsify dirt and oil are by nature alkaline and will raise the skin’s acidic pH as well as provoke swelling of the skin surface. Some studies have shown long-term use of a neutral or alkaline surfactant, such as soap, can increase the amount of bacteria on the skin, while swelling can lead to cellular damage or even breakage. Soap salts can also remove natural moisturizing factors and disrupt the skin’s protective barrier. The fatty acids in soap can have harmful effects too, by plugging follicles (pores) and causing acne.

Soaps may also contain fragrance (often to mask the strong odours of surfactants) and sometimes dyes or pigments. These ingredients can be irritating for people with sensitive skin.

Cleansing History

Today many people use the term “soap” to refer to any cleaning agent regardless of its chemistry. Traditionally soap is a simple combination of fats, oils and salt with a history stretching back to the ancient Romans. In fact, the word “detergent” is derived from “to wipe off” in Latin.

Soaps as we know them were first used about 600 BC by the Phoenicians who combined goat fat, water and potassium carbonate ash to form a solid soap.

More recently, in 1878, Harley Procter developed a new type of soap in collaboration with his cousin, James Gamble. They whipped air into a solution and created Ivory Soap, a product still sold today.

How to Cleanse Your Skin

1. Technique

Most mild, liquid cleansers can be used to clean the whole body, and some can be used without water. Lightly rub the cleanser over your skin to loosen cosmetics, debris and dirt, then rinse well with warm water or wipe off the excess with a clean dry cloth/tissue. Those with very sensitive skin should take special care to remove all the cleanser, as some ingredients could be irritating if left on the skin.

2. Frequency

Mild cleansers can be used once or twice a day on sensitive skin, depending on your preference and your doctor’s advice.

3. Moisturizers

Humans have moisturized their skin for thousands of years, and for good reason. Moisturizers increase the hydration of your skin by trapping and holding water as well as helping maintain and repair the skin barrier. Moisturizers also play a role in preventing contact dermatitis and can soothe inflammation in damaged or irritated skin. Avoid using too rich moisturizers, however, as these can lead to breakouts.

Natural Cleansers, Soaps and Face Masks

If you are looking for some great homemade facial mask recipes to save some money, keep reading. Some of these facial skincare tips I found on the web, others were notes from herbal classes I took.  So, depending on your skin type, here are lots of great facial masks to try at home. When possible always try to use organic or natural ingredients to prevent possible allergic reactions. Enjoy!

FOR OILY SKIN

For oily skin use some plain Milk of Magnesia, rub it on your face and neck area and let dry, then rinse with lukewarm water. It absorbs oil wonderfully!

I haven’t tried this one personally, but I heard it works well too.  Said to have a cleansing and softening effect: mix regular clean kitty litter, the clay kind, with water and strain out the grit. Mix in a little water and appy to a damp face for 10-15 min.

For normal to oily skin, use an egg white.

FOR NORMAL / COMBINATION SKIN / ACNE

Why buy acne products when you use strawberries? Strawberries are a natural source of salicylic acid which is found in most over-the-counter acne medicines, according to Janice Cox, the author of “Natural Beauty at Home.” This is Cox’s recipe. The yogurt is great for soothing skin.

Ingredients:

* 1/4 cup strawberries (fresh, not frozen please)
* 1/4 cup sour cream or non-flavored yogurt

Preparation:
Mash together the strawberries and yogurt or sour cream. Spread on face and wash after 10-15 minutes.

ADDITIONAL FACIAL MASK RECIPES

Mix one egg and 1/2 cup cooked instant oatmeal and a teaspoon olive oil until smooth. Spread on your face and leave 15 min then rinse.

For trouble-prone skin, mix oatmeal with water to form a paste.

FOR DRY SKIN

For dry skin, mix one egg yolk, one teaspoon honey and a teaspoon olive oil and some vitamin E oil if you have it. Smooth on and leave on for 15 min. Rinse in lukewarm water and pat dry. If your skin is a bit dry you can put a dab or two of either extra virgin olive oil, or any light organic oil, like jojoba or almond if you need a heavier moisturizer after cleansing or a good moisturizing facial mask.

Homemade Facial Scrub Instead of Soap

For a homemade facial mask. First, clean your face with water only. Never use plain store-bought soap. If you do use soap, make sure its a n organic or natural blend that won’t strip your skin of it’s natural acid mantel. You can also open your pores with hot compresses (washcloth).

For a great facial scrub, moisten oatmeal to a “gooey” consistency, use it to scrub your face (not around your eyes). Wash off with cool water.  You may also make a paste of the oatmeal and allow it to dry..remove with cool water.

Sliced fresh cucumber placed on your closed eyes will reduce bagginess and dark circles.To make your hair shine, rub in some regular mayonnaise,shampoo out after 15 minutes.

Honey wins for Best Organic Facial Treatment

One of the best facial masks that I have found is honey. Honey is a antural anti-micoribal and an excellent wound healer. First, use a warm cloth to open pores, smear on organic or herbally infused honey, leave on 15 to 30 minutes, rinse off with warm water, and then use cold water to close pores. Use for 3 days in a row and then once a week.
You can also mix a little gound oatmeal with the honey, which makes an excellent natural face mask.

Exfoliating Facial Mask
For an easy exfoliating mask, mix three tablespoons olive oil or any skincare oil (almond, jojoba) and one tablespoon kosher salt mix and gently rub into dry skin. Do not use around eye area. This works great on elbows and feet, but it can also be used on cheeks and forehead

Egg Whites / Egg Yolk Facial Masks

Just beat one egg white until it is frothy. Spread it all over your face. Wait until it dries. Rinse it off. My face feels very clean and “tight” after this application. And then you can use the yolk for cooking.

Some reccommend using a raw egg yolk. Just apply the raw yolk to your face and neck for 30 minutes and rinse with cool water. Egg yolks are high in vitamin A. The mask is very effective in healing blemishes.

Match Your Facial Mask to Your Skin Type

For normal to oily skin, use an egg white.
For dry skin, use an egg yolk.

In all cases, spread mixture on face and allow to dry. Rinse thoroughly with cool water.

For oily skin, witch hazel makes an inexpensive toner.

For dry skin, you may want to add moisturizer while skin is still damp.

One reader said ” The cheapest and best facial mask I have ever come up with is oatmeal processed to a powder in the blender and either skim milk. If you are trying to fade spots, use lemon juice. Really works well for dry skin.”

More Facial Mask Ingredient Choices.

Having fun playing around in your kitchen - mix and match for the best facial treatment for you!
The kind of the mask you want to use depends on your skin type.

For dry skin, try:

* an egg yolk mixed with olive oil and warmed honey

* sour cream

* plain olive oil

* avocado

For oily skin:

* dissolve a teaspoon of baking yeast in a small amount of warm milk, wait until foamy, then apply (best done in the bath tub)

* puree flesh of a tomato and mix with some potato flour to make a paste;

* cucumber (it will whiten your skin);

* beaten egg whites with a few drops of lemon juice (great for getting rid of blackheads);

* carrots (but don’t use this one more than about every other week because it can overdry your skin). This one will make you look tanned.

General refreshing masks:

* grapes (just cut a berry in half and rub lightly)

* strawberries (test behind your ear first, because many people are alergic to strawberies used this way even though they can eat them just fine)

* honey and ricotta cheese

Many fruits and vegetables can also be used to good effect. Anything acidic (lemon, strawberries, etc) will tend to whiten and refresh your skin, but you need to be careful if your skin is dry.

In general, don’t apply masks more often than about twice a week, and try to vary the ingredients.

It is a good idea to test the mask first for allergic reactions. Apply a small amount behind your ear, wait 20 minutes, then wash off. Then wait 24 hours. If the skin behind your ear is normal, then go ahead and use the mask.

Select the Right Anti Aging Skin Care Products

Most of us are very concerned about our aging skin. This shows in our willingness to spend large amounts of money on anti aging skin care products. Not only do we purchase large quantities of anti aging skin care treatments, we spend billions on cosmetic surgery to look younger as well. None of us want to look older than we are; we would rather look much younger.

The fact that we spend millions on anti aging skin care products and treatments every year actually shows that the majority of the treatments do not work as they say they will. If they did, we would not have to keep trying different kinds of products for our aging skin.

That is not to say there aren’t good anti aging skin care products on the market. There most definitely are - and here are some pointers for choosing the right ones.

What to Consider When Buying Anti Aging Skin Care Products

Avoid skin care products that contain fragrances or other chemical ingredients. These can actually cause more harm than good as they absorb into your body. Foreign chemicals do not belong in the body. It is counter productive to use chemicals on the skin for an anti aging treatment.

Use perfumes and body sprays to add a nice scent to your skin instead. The difference between sprays and lotions is that with a lotion, you are rubbing the chemicals into your skin. Sprays are less concentrated and left on the surface.

Products that contain collagen are a complete waste of time. The claims made by skin care manufacturers who put collagen into their anti aging skin care products are completely false. The only true way to put collagen into the skin is to use something that stimulates natural collagen production.

The Results are in the Ingredients, Not the Advertising

The majority of those in the skincare industry are out to make money and that is their primary goal. They will spend millions of dollars on advertising just to get people to buy their product. Most of the time, the product is not as good as they claim it to be because it is not made with the best ingredients. It seems they would rather spend good money on advertising than on quality lotions that are effective.

Using Celebrities to Endorse Anti Aging Skin Care Products & Treatments

Celebrities are often used to promote products. A good example of this is Proactive Solutions. Vanessa Williams and Jessica Simpson both promote this anti-acne skin care line. The painful truth is that they are highly paid for their endorsements. That is not to say the product does not work, but rather it reveals a different sort of motivation behind their advertising.

Smaller companies that put money into their products are the best bet for your money. When it comes to anti aging skin care products, it is far better to buy from smaller companies that put their money into the ingredients rather than in the pockets of celebrities.

Sensitive Skin 101

What is sensitive skin?

Generally if you have easily irritated or reactive skin, then you have ‘sensitive skin’. Most of the time sensitive skin relates to the face. Sensitive skin can be caused by a genetic predisposition or environmental factors. It appears as a redness, a swelling, itchy and dry irritation to the face. One of the major jobs of the skin is to waterproof. This is done to the epidermis or surface layer of the skin, producing a fat-protein sandwich that is always being replaced and is vital to prevent too much water loss from the skin.

Symptoms of sensitive skin include:

• A tingling or tightening of the skin without visible signs
• “Overreaction” to skin care or cosmetic products
• Reactions to shaving, or other physical stress to the skin

Sensitive skin can also be a heads-up for other conditions, such as:

• Altered skin — due to shaving, waxing, medications or heat, cold, wind, and pollution. Also, laser or chemical peels or scar removal
• Allergic skin – the sudden appearance of redness or swelling and itchiness
• Atopic skin – dry skin that is itchy and produces eczema. Eczema is related to hayfever and asthma. (see Eczema Guide for more information)
• Rosacea skin - blood vessels of the face enlarge resulting in a flushed sensation or a redness of the skin

What to do about your skin?

• Perfume or scented creams can be irritating.
• Rinse well after using cleansing products, which should be mild and soap-free as they do not remove so much oil from the skin (www.MildCleanser.ca gives you more information about this kind of cleansers)
• Use a moisturizer and sunscreen that is formulated for sensitive skin
• Don’t over wash your face. Temperature of the water should be tepid; neither hot or cold
• Don’t use exfoliants
• Be aware of seasonal temperatures. The sudden dryness of winter can mean itchy, dry skin until the skin responds by increasing oil production to reduce the water loss
• For breakouts use a cleanser with salicylic acid to help exfoliate pores. There are also moisturizers that contain salicylic acid

Be sensitive to stress

The causes and effects of stress on the body are not fully known, but for some people stress interferes with the body’s systems that repair and regulate the skin. Stress kills your natural antioxidant defenses, which help to prevent accelerated aging of the skin. Hormones can also trigger a histamine release within the skin causing it to erupt in bumpy redness, or breakout in hives.

Desensitize yourself

When choosing makeup, especially foundation and blush, buy oil-free products. Makeup that is water-based won’t clog pores. Look for oil-absorbing foundations that help keep oil off the face.

As for the rest of your body, check ingredients and avoid harsh chemicals in soaps, shampoos, body cleansers and creams, bath oils, bubble baths, etc.

Put your best face forward

• Watch your alcohol intake, spicy foods and caffeine
• Try to avoid excessive temperature changes
• Use the right cleansers, moisturizers and cosmetics
• Manage stress as best you can